Patek Philippe 5205G Tiffany & Co. Annual Calendar Moon Phase

Watches with annual calendar complications are often overlooked in favor of the more sophisticated perpetual calendar complications. For those unfamiliar, an annual calendar tracks months with 30 and 31 days but requires manual adjustment at the end of February to account for its shorter length. In contrast, a perpetual calendar adjusts automatically for both February's variance and leap years with a four-year date wheel, operating "perpetually" with no need for resetting if the watch is worn daily or kept in a watch winder. This added complexity significantly increases their value and appeal.

However, I'm here to argue the merits of opting for an annual calendar, particularly when it involves a piece as exceptional as this. The 5205G doesn't just feature a captivating moon phase indicator; it also comes in a special blue box—a Tiffany blue box—and boasts an even more distinctive stamp on the dial.

This is the Patek Philippe Complications 5205G Tiffany & Co. in 18K white gold.

I’m a total sucker for exclusive collaborations, especially those between heritage-rich brands like Patek and Tiffany. The alliance between Patek Philippe and Tiffany & Co. dates back to 1851, when Antoine Norbert de Patek sought the world's premier retailer for his distinguished timepieces, finding Charles Lewis Tiffany in New York.

This watch checks a ton of boxes for me. While it’s not a new innovation, the concept of a mechanical watch complex enough to track an entire year on your wrist is still incredibly cool. I also appreciate Patek's online tool for setting the moon phase accurately: simply enter the date, and the tool will show you exactly how to align the moon phase indicator.

In true Patek tradition, setting the 5205G requires a special pin pusher tool, providing a satisfying tactile experience. It almost feels like you're wrenching on a car when you set it. The watch features four push pieces, two on each side of the case, which you gently engage with the tool to adjust the day, date, month, and moon phase. Setting this watch while on the move will be challenging without the tool, but if it's set correctly and worn consistently, you should only need to advance the wheels once a year on March 1st—three days in non-leap years and two days in leap years.

Beyond the nerdy technical aspects that get me excited, I find the style extraordinary. The sunburst dial with deep blue hues that gracefully fade to black are incredible. The delicate features, like the slightly concave bezel, skeletonized strap lugs, and hand-stitched alligator strap, add a touch of elegance and light-weight wearability.

So if you're in the market for a calendar watch and are considering options beyond a perpetual calendar, the Patek Philippe 5205G Tiffany & Co. epitomizes perfection—chef’s kiss 🤌.

What do you think? Is a perpetual calendar essential, or does this watch deserve a place in your collection?